Two people working together at a table in a workshop setting.

The Bespoke Process

Bespoke shirtmaking is at the heart of Budd and our cutting team the most proficient and experienced there is. They were all apprenticed and trained traditionally into the trade and between them have over 100 years of cutting experience. There are no shortcuts in bespoke, each stage of the shirtmaking process is considered and purposeful. 
Person measuring a man for bespoke shirt.

The bespoke process is meticulous and starts with you being measured by one of our cutters. Not only will the cutter take note of your measurements, but he/she will also observe the physical nuances of your posture.

Cloth selection and style, including collar, cuff, placket and monogramming options will then also be discussed and chosen. Your cutter will then order your cloth and hand-draught your unique pattern, marking in any stylistic details. This will include separate collar, cuff and body patterns. Our cutters still use belly blades to then hand-cut your cloth for enhanced precision. 

Cloth swatches for shirts
Bespoke cutter writing measurement for bespoke shirt order
Bespoke pattern being drawn on brown paper
Man in blue shirt cutting a shirt with shirtmaking knife
Person using a Juki sewing machine on fabric

First orders - whilst first orders have a minimum order of four shirts, a first sample shirt will be produced first.   

Your cut shirt is then sent to our workshop in Andover, Hampshire, where it is skillfully sewn together by our team of experienced seamstresses. Shirts are hand-machined, using precise, single needle stitching throughout. Collars are hand-turned and applied before shirts are finally hand-finished and hand-pressed. Every bespoke shirt has labels with your unique order number and initials added, serving as a reference point for future orders.

Man cutting a shirt in cutting room
Cloth bundle of shirt fabric tied with blue ribbon
Image of shirt cloth being pressed by silver iron

Every bespoke order is sewn together at our workroom in Andover, Hampshire by our expert team. Staff are trained in-house by our senior staff, some of whom have crafted shirts for Budd for more than fifty years. Over time, our workroom team also become familiar with the order history and nuances of our individual customers, ensuring continuity of make and an unparalleled knowledge and application of techniques.

Person using a sewing machine with a close-up of the needle and thread.
Lady machinist sat at sewing machine in shirt making workshop
Budd white shirt being packed and folded

Once your sample shirt has been made, it will be sent to you to wash and wear a couple of times, after which we will invite you for a fitting in order to review fit and comfort. Any amendments will be noted, and your pattern and shirt revised, before the rest of your order is put into work. 

Repeat orders - For repeat orders, the process is a swifter one, working to your latest measurements and with a minimum order of two shirts.